Size, Weight and Life Span Information
All Potbellied Pigs are miniature when compared to their cousin, the farm hog. Hence the name miniature pot bellied pigs. When full grown, a farm hog can exceed 1,000 pounds. Thus it is obvious why Vietnamese pot belly pigs are considered miniature. Also, weight is not always the best way to describe them. Their bodies are very compact and solid. A 100 pound pig can be the size of a small dog that weighs 35-40 pounds.
LIFESPAN: How Long Do Pot Belly Pigs Live?
The lifespan on the average pot belly pig is now considered to be 12 - 15 years. It was originally thought that their longevity range was from 12 to 20 years. The truth is that nobody knows for certain. The oldest potbellied pig we know of is one that died at 19 years of age. Keep in mind that the potbellied pig has only been in this country since 1985, so this pig evidently was one of the originals.
We are still learning a lot about these unique little animals. This is a serious consideration for anyone contemplating a potbellied pig as a pet. It is, quite literally, a lifelong commitment given the longevity of these animals.
A Diet for a Healthy Pig
Food
Pigs love to eat (what else is new?) and the proper type and amount of food he/she gets is very important. There are several companies that make mini pig chow. The most popular feeds are Heartland, Peak Performance, Mazuri by Purina, Nutrina and Manna Pro.
These feeds are designed for pot belly pigs and should always be the mainstay of their diet. Pig chow has what they need in it. It is a complete food made to give them what they need, especially protein that a pig has to have and can't make themselves.
We have to try and remember that these pigs are Omnivore not Herbivore. They cannot make their own protein. That is why it has to be fed to them and they will get that in their pig chow. In the wild the protein would come from; dead animals, worms, bugs, etc. The pig chow we give them has the protein added so it makes our life easier.
As long as the pig gets its normal feeding of the pig chow things are OK, but a pig fed nothing but fruits and veggies will have problems.
Part of good pot belly pig care is proper diet. Feed your pig at least twice a day. A general guide is piglets should be fed on a free-choice basis (as many times as they want) or about 1 cups of pig chow from 6-8 weeks old (or as soon as pigs will nibble on it) until 1 year old. At around 1 year you may need to decrease or increase the amount slightly. This will depend on your pigs metabolism and activity level. Each pig is different.
Avoid feeding your pig dog or cat food
Cat food is made for cats as dog food is made for dogs. They do not have the proper nutrients for your potbellied pig and the protein level is too high. Dog food can be given in case of emergency (like you ran out of feed) but only for a short period of time.
Get a feed that is low in protein, 12% or 14% and has as little fat as possible. If your pig constantly goes back and forth between the food and water bowls then you may want to either put the water bowl farther away or put some water on piggy's food. Do not soak it, put on just enough to moisten it.
Food amounts should be cut down if your pig is able to graze a great deal. For instance, in the summer months my pigs are outside grazing all day so I can cut back on the amount of food I feed them. Usually I will cut it in half. In the winter we do increase the amount fed to the outside pigs as they need that protein to burn off. In the winter we usually double what would be their normal amount.
Please do not feed your pet pig "people food" or you will end up with a fat and unhealthy pig. They are just like humans: Eat junk food and you get FAT!! Plus, it is not good for their (or your) overall long term health. When a pig becomes overweight, their legs will eventually give them problems. This is quite common in overweight pigs, along with other health conditions.
Give your pig one children's complete chewable vitamin daily. Your pigs overall health and appearance are the best guides to determine the proper amount of food. Basically, when it comes to diet, good care of potbellied pigs is pretty much the same as good care of yourself. No sugars, low fat, do not overdo it with feeding! The key is moderation.
Foods to Feed in Limited Amounts
- Fruits: High in calories from fructose.
- Corn: High in sugar from fructose.
- Potatoes, Yams, Sweet Potatoes: Starchy and high in calories.
- Tomatoes: Highly acidic.
- Spinach: High in sodium, is okay if pig has clean water to drink.
One other thing: There are many unscrupulous people and breeders out there that tell you if you want your pig to stay small in stature (physical size, not just weight), just feed it less. Not only is this completely ludicrous and false, it can be considered animal abuse in many locations. Pet pigs, especially those just starting out in life, need all the nutrients they can get to avoid serious health problems later.
You would not underfeed your child just to keep them small of stature, would you? And besides, it would cause severe health problems. Do yourself a favor: If anyone ever tells you that the way to keep a pig small of stature is to feed it just a little, tell them they are crazy and then report them to the authorities.
Treats
Some of the most popular treats used are Cheerios, bite size shredded wheat, and plain, un-buttered, un-salted air popped popcorn. The most popular treat for training purposes is made specifically for potbellies that come in Apple and P-Nut Butter flavors. Others use grapes and tiny bits of cheese. Pigs love cheese so make sure the pieces are very small.
Please, do not feed your pig chocolate!!!
There are some reports that chocolate can be deadly for pigs, so better safe than sorry! In fact, try not to feed your pig any candy at all. It is much better for them and is good pot belly pig care.
Water
Make sure your potbelly pig always has access to clean drinking water. It is as important to them as it is to us. In some cases potbelly pigs develop a taste for fruit juice and the like. My house pigs rarely drink plain water any more as we made the mistake of adding 100% fruit juice to their water. They now prefer, I mean demand, to have some fruit juice mixed into it. That is fine. As long as the fruit juice is sugar free, 100% juice! But I still have a bowl of water around just in case and they do use it on occasion.
If you are going to mix in fruit juice, make the mixture mostly water. Just a hint of sweetness from the juice seems to be fine. If your pigs are anything like mine they will let you know if the mixture is not right! Even in cooler weather pigs will need to have drinking water available.
However, the best thing for your pig is pure water. So, get them used to that as it is completely natural for them, just as it is for us.
When your pig is thirsty he will drink. Some pigs need a lot of water, some pigs seem to seldom touch it. But NO, you don't need to put juice in if your pig drinks enough to keep you happy.
It amazes me that we give these guys all kinds of credit for being so smart yet we think they don't have enough sense to get a drink if they need it? Some just don't require what other ones do. But once you start with the juice they can and will hold out for that until you come through with it, so if they are drinking well I wouldn't do it.
Keep in mind that there are times of the year when pigs will drink more. Winter is one time. Many pigs drink much more in the winter than normal. Or, if it is abnormally hot, some pigs may increase their water intake, so make sure you keep them supplied with clean, fresh water.
Do Pigs Sweat?
Pigs do not sweat! Actually the only place they 'sweat' is out of the top end of their nose! You will see little tiny droplets of water forming there. To help them keep cool during those hot summer days you will need either a kiddy pool (those cheap plastic ones they sell every spring do fine, but only last about one season) or a nice mud hole.
Rolling around in the mud hole cools them off by covering them in cool mud. Plus, caked on mud keeps insects from getting to their skin and works as a sun screen.
You will need to train yourself to clean the pigs before bringing them into the home once they have been enjoying a nice mud bath.
Indoor Housing
Pot belly pigs are curious and intelligent animals. If your pet pig is going to be a house piggy then you will need to 'pig proof' your house just as you would for a toddler. They will chew on anything and can open just about anything so check those electric cords, 'child proof' those cabinets and your refridgerator, and make sure you check all your furnishings. Pot belly pigs like to rub and/or scratch against anything (like walls and furniture) so be sure anything that can be knocked over is secure. They are much stronger than you think!!
Your pig will need a space he can call all his own. If you have a whole room that he can call his own, great. For mine it is their bed and when they are in it we leave them alone as this is their space. Some pigs like being in a closet, some pigs actually have a camping tent set up in the house that is theirs. No matter where their bed is, that is their sanctuary!
Your potbellied pigs bed should consist of blankets and pillows. Never use cedar bedding or sleeping bags. Your best bet will be to get some cheap blankets from a thrift store as they love to shred them to just the way they want them. This will make them as happy as a pig in heaven.
An indoor pig pet left all alone all day can get very bored, particularly younger ones less than 5-6 years old. As pigs age they do slow down (just like us). Remember they are curious and also love to root (this is also natural!).
In order to amuse himself he may end up rooting up the floor or carpet, chewing on the walls and opening kitchen cupboards. Many have even figured out how to open the refrigerator, although I have not heard of any that have figured out how to use the microwave!
Remember, pigs are not only curious, but VERY SMART! If it can be opened, they WILL OPEN IT! This is another good reason why you should have all cleaning supplies, pesticides, etc. out of reach, just like with a child. It is best if your house pig has plenty of outdoor time. Don't worry, since they are so smart it is pretty easy to teach them not to chew on furniture, walls, etc. and most stop this very quickly.
If they can get to anything, like your newspaper, purse, books or slippers, it is your fault, not the pig. As smart as they are, you are still smarter than them and must plan ahead to keep your piggy safe and out of trouble.
Outdoor Housing
Outdoor pigs will need a sturdy, weather proof shed or barn. Plenty of straw to keep them warm at night. We do not like blankets for outside pigs as they can get wet and hold the moisture. Ideally outdoor pigs should be kept in small groups for extra body warmth. They love to snuggle together on cool nights.
Remember that pigs need plenty of fresh drinking water at all times.
Another thing most people do not know is: Pigs do not sweat! Actually the only place they 'sweat' is out of the top end of their nose! You will see little tiny droplets of water forming there.
To help them keep cool during those hot summer days you will need either a kiddy pool (those cheap plastic ones they sell every spring do fine, but only last about one season) or a nice mud hole. Rolling around in the mud hole cools them off by covering them in cool mud. Plus, caked on mud keeps insects from getting to their skin. (Bonnie and Clyde love to use the pool then roll around on the ground to cake some dirt on themselves ).
You will need to make sure that their area is fenced well. Hog panels or cattle panels seem to work best. The cattle panels are taller (about 4 feet) and harder for stray animals to jump over. Hog panels are about 3 feet tall. These panels are heavy sections of fence. Each section is 16 feet long and made of 1/4" or 3/8" round stiff metal. Most feed stores know what these are.
Cedar fencing and chain link will do also. Chain link should be re-enforced with chicken wire along the bottom and sunk about six inches below ground. Make sure there is no place for your pigs snout or tusk to get stuck or caught. You will want a fence that will keep your pig in and others (stray dogs, coyotes or other critters) out.
An outdoor pig will want to root around. This is a natural thing and your pig should be allowed to do this. You may want to fence off a section of your yard for your pig to be a pig. They will root all the way to China in order to get at something they smell below the surface. Their snouts are very powerful. You might also need to fence off any flower beds that you want to keep. If you have a beautiful lawn and you get a pig, well, you should know what you are getting into and take appropriate precautions. They will not root up the whole lawn, but sure can root up sections!
To try and answer numerous questions concerning outdoor housing, here is what your basics should be:
- Make sure their area is out of any drafts or the wind.
- Make sure they have adequate, and dry, bedding. We use straw here and it works very well. Just switch it out at least every month during the winter or rainy season to insure the bedding is kept dry. Wet surroundings and/or wet straw will make your pig sick very quickly.
- Do not use heat lamps in outdoor areas. First of all if the housing area is done properly, they will be plenty warm under their straw. Plus, over the years there have been way too many pigs that have died in fires started by heat lamps.
- If possible, give them a semi-outdoor area near or next to their sleeping area that is sheltered from snow or rain.
Pet Busy Piggy Ball are another favorite because they are filled with food. They are balls will holes drilled in them just big enough for the food to fall out. The pig pushes the Busy Ball around the house getting food and exercise at the same time. It keeps them busy and occupied. If your pet pig gets bored, that is when he gets in 'trouble' and you have a problem. Busy Balls keep them busy and satisfied and are virtually indestructible.
