OurTexasFunnyFarm

Harness & Lead Training

Harness training is really a lot easier than it sounds. ALWAYS tell the pig what you are going to do before you do it. Just remember that a harness is NOT a "pig-handle", it is a way to communicate to and to protect your pig.

The right kind of harness makes training much easier. The best type of harness is designed especially for pet pigs. There are two different styles.

Whether you have a piglet or larger pig, measure the pig carefully using a flexible tape measure (the kind used in sewing). Measure around piggy's neck and piggy's girth (around the body just behind the front legs and over the shoulders). If piggy isn't interested in sharing his measurements with you, use a treat or handful of piggy food to distract him. With the right harness in the right size, you're ready to begin.

IS YOUR PIG READY FOR HARNESS TRAINING?

If you are able to touch and scratch your pig, he's ready. Touch-Me-Not pigs that are afraid of people need a bit more socializing first. Stay with piggy while he eats, talking to him and trying to touch him the whole time. In a few short days your pig should be comfortable enough with you to begin harness training.

NEVER force your pig into a harness. The first step is to introduce your pig to the new harness. Show it to him, tell him what it is, and that he will be wearing it. Let him sniff and taste it. Rub it all over his body.

HOW TO BEGIN HARNESS TRAINING

Now distract your pig by scattering a little pig food on the ground. Come up with a phrase you want your pig to associate with putting on the harness. Move slowly and speak softly.  If your pig gets upset or jumpy, distract him with a little bit more food and reassure him that everything is OK. If he is really upset, and does not settle down quickly, take the harness off, using the phrase you want to associate with taking the harness off.

The next step is to buckle the second loop around your pigs girth (behind the front legs), and adjust the harness so that it is snug but not tight. (Hopefully this was taken care before you put the harness on your pig, but sometimes you will still need to adjust the harness). If your pig will not let you adjust the harness while it is on him take it off and adjust. Let him wear it for a few minutes, then take it off. Don't stress your pig out by leaving it on too long the first time. By the second or third time your pig should be comfortable enough to wear his harness for longer periods of time (provided he stays in safe, familiar surroundings).

If you need to adjust the harness while piggy is wearing it, don't just reach down and grab. Tell your pig what you are going to do first. When you can slip the harness on and off quickly and easily with minimal protests on piggy's part, you're ready to attach the lead. Do this in a confined area such as indoors or a fairly small, fenced area. Use a fairly short (10' or less) lead.

ONCE YOU GET THE HARNESS ON YOUR PIG

Pigs in the wild are prey, and the only time they are ever restrained is by a predator, shortly before they become the entree. So when your piggy realizes he is restrained by the lead and harness, he may freak out. Again remember, this is a normal reaction that Mother Natures has given them. When they are restrained, they can get very wild until they learn that the harness, lead and you guiding them is safe.

Let him wear it and drag the leash for a while. Next pick it up and let him go wherever he wants to. Then, put a little pressure on the leash, call his name, and give him a treat the minute he turns his head in your direction. Next stand a few steps away, pull the leash, call and hold the treat so he has to walk a step or two to get it. In a couple of days, he should be walking on the leash. The secret is the immediate reward as soon as he looks at you.

After a couple of times, your pig will understand that he is free to move around as long as he stays close to you. Getting a harness and lead on your pig is easy. Getting him to walk along with you is trickier. Pigs have minds of their own. It may seem as if the harness and lead will let you control where the pig goes, but from his perspective YOU are the one on a lead. He may happily try to lead you around, or take a slow and leisurely stroll, stopping to dine along the way.

To teach your pig to walk along with you at your pace, start in the direction you want to go, speaking the phrase you want him to associate with walking nicely on a leash, like "walk". If piggy stays with you, great! Give him a tiny treat and tell him what a good pig he is. If not, when you are as far apart as the lead will allow, call your pig to you and give him a single treat. When he approaches you, continue walking in the direction you want to go, and give him the treat as soon as he is close to you. Keep doing this over and over again. Remember to keep sessions short.

One other note: If you attempt any of this by forcing the pig (pulling him along, jerking him with the lead, etc.), you can pretty much forget about having a pig that is well trained with a harness. Remember, they learn and respond quickly by you using treats, gentleness and compassion.

Once a pig is harness trained, he is harness trained for life. Pigs never forget.

Litter Box and Potty Training

One of the jobs in raising pigs, particularly indoor pigs, is to teach it where to go potty. Pigs tend to potty in a particular spot. Outdoor pigs are easy. Your pet pig will usually find a spot, and that is where they will go! If you choose to have, or need to have, a litter box indoors, pick one big enough for your pet pig to turn around in.

Obviously they do not make litter boxes for pigs so you need to improvise. A plastic sweater box, or cement mixing box work very well for smaller pigs. For that larger pig a kiddy pool works great (one of those inexpensive plastic ones). Just cut an opening in one side to give them easy access.

The best thing to use in your litter box is pine shavings, NEVER cedar shavings or kitty litter. We don't use cedar shavings because of the oils in it and we don't use kitty litter because it is meant to clump. If your pig eats any of the kitty litter it will clump inside him and cause a blockage. I do admit that the pine shavings can make a mess so you might want to use newspaper. I know most of us have plenty of them around.

Remember, pigs tend to potty in one spot so pick the location(s) of the litter box(s) carefully as the pig may not want to change potty spots later on. Behind a piece of furniture, out of view, is common. Or, if your pig has his own room, put the litter in the opposite side of the room from their bed. Wherever you put the potty, do not put it next to where they sleep. Pigs are quite clean and will not do their business where they sleep.

Potty Training the Indoor Pig

While training the indoor pig to use the litter box, keep him/her confined to a small area of your home. Do not give the pig free run of the house while training. They should be placed in a semi private area that is not too far away from the pigs main digs, but not too close, either. During training, do not over clean the litter box. Leave at least one "pigberry" in the box. The scent of it stimulates him to go, and tells him that this is the proper place.

No food rewards for correct potty behavior. Doing this tends to take the pigs focus off "what comes natural". Pigs are naturally clean animals that like to go outside, or in the same place every day. Potty training deteriorates when the pig anticipates food, and it changes his natural instincts. Pigs do not need to be rewarded for this. Pigs are creatures of habit.

Do not give your pig free run of the house until he/she is at least six months old. Young pigs are prone to accidents. Keep that in mind and don't get mad or hit your pig because they had an accident! It is up to you to teach your pig where to go. Remember, they are very intelligent. Most learn to use a litter box in 1 - 5 days.

NOTE: Very young pigs aged 6 months or less, have not yet developed complete control over the muscles that control their bodily functions. So, if your pig has an accident at this young age, do not blame him to much. As long as he makes the effort to get to the potty.

Pigs potty at night because they have too much room to roam in. Pigs may need to be semi confined for the night time for a while. Never give a new pig full run of the house till ALL housebreaking is over. Confining them to a crate or small area is the best route to go in the beginning. If piggy was house broken and having accidents again, go back to the beginning and confine them to a small area. 

Walk him/her over to the box every 2 hours. Take them outside at the same time every day, or when training to use a litter box, take them over to the box every 2 hours to "remind" them. Put your pig on a schedule; potty first thing in the morning, after breakfast, (every couple of hours through out the day if you are lucky enough to be home), when you get home, after dinner and again before bed time.

If you let your pig go outside, no food rewards for coming in. The pig will forget to go, or possibly fake it. Yes, they are intelligent enough to figure out how to 'fake you out'! Leave him out at least 10 minutes.

NEVER punish a pig for not going in the proper place (even yelling). Such behavior confuses the pig, and takes the focus away from what the pig will do NATURALLY, if we don't try to "train" them. If he makes a mistake, lead him to the PROPER place every 2 hours, whether he has to go, or not.

I recommend that all pigs (that means house pigs) go outside to potty. The only time they need to be using the litter box is when they are first brought home as piglets and those that are brought into the family during the winter months. Otherwise they should be going outside to potty!

Ways to Teach Your Pig to Go Potty Outside

Lori used a sweater box with papers in it for her pig Pork Chop. She did this untill it started getting warm outside. When they were outside she was always outside playing with them and he started going potty outside on his own and now that's all he goes. She still puts his litter box in the kitchen when she is going to be gone all day but he seems to just like going outside.

That is how he got to going outside, by just being out there a lot and he is an inside pig full time except when we are outside.

We started Winnie in a litter box that grew over the months. When the Spring weather came we moved it right by the door. (We'd been moving it slowly for a couple of weeks. They cannot handle the change too quickly.) After she was going to the door to go, then we moved it outside just beside the bottom of the stairs. She would go to the door.

The first few times we carried her out because there was still a bit of frost in the mornings and also a couple of light snows. When she got comfortable going at the bottom of the stairs, we gradually moved the box farther away. In the warm weather she chose three or four places. Usually under a bush with her head turned in for privacy and her butt turned out for all the world to see!!! So much for privacy.

Now she goes out whenever she asks. She can hold her potty at night for incredibly long periods of time and then when she goes it is amazing. I don't know how they hold all that piddle-I'm just glad they do until they get out!!!!

Well, when I was training Mollie (I never tried the litter box thing) I put newspaper on the floor. I later used those what I call floor diapers. They are plastic on the bottom with that diaper filler and cover. Anyway, I put the paper down and she used that until she was old enough to understand to go out.

She had picked a spot (she was confined to the kitchen for 4 months) and that's where I put the paper. She started going on it, and when she got a little older (she was also wild when we got her at 9 weeks) and used to us, I would walk her outside and tell her she was a good piggy when she pottied.

She started to get the idea really quick, and started using the paper less and less until one day she just stopped. She preferred to go out because she lived in the kitchen and I guess she didn't want to stink it up. 

All "mistakes" must be de-scented with enzyme product. By following these simple guidelines you will be a true pet lover and good pet pig parent.

Behavior Patterns in Pot Belly Pigs

Territorial Behavior

We are often asked: "Why is my pig being aggressive and charging at friends and/or family members but not me"? This is a natural behavior for the pig. Pigs have a hierarchy system and only one pig or member of the pig herd (family) can be the top hog. This starts when they are very young. They start by fighting litter mates for a particular teat. And this will continue for the rest of their lives.

It is just natural for them to challenge other members of the herd to see who will be top hog. And this is a major reason why you may see your loving potbelly test members of the family (his herd) to see if he can move up the ladder to top hog status. This is why children are often challenged as the pig knows they are not the top hog and they might be able to move up in the herd by challenging them.

The key to dealing with aggression is training, discipline, and consistency. Never let your 10 pound pig get away with anything you don't want your 100+ pound pig doing. If there is ever an opening or a chance to challenge they will take it. They do not understand gray areas, you must teach and train in black and white, yes and no, not well or maybe.

What You Can Do

For every person you ask you will get a different answer on how to handle a pig that is charging at you. So here are a couple of ideas you can try and then pick which one will work best for you and your pig. Again, please remember that is normal behavior for your pig to charge you, to be aggressive or assertive. It is your job to train your pig properly.

Training Your Pig

A well trained pig is a happy pig. If you have children that might be challenged by your pig, have them teach the pig a trick. With supervision from you in the background of course.

Step in and anticipate what your pig may do and be ready to say "NO!" repeatedly. Say "NO" in a firm, strong voice, but not screaming. Push him by the shoulders to the side and divert him from his intent. This is how two pigs normally fight. They push each other around from the side at the shoulders.

Another way to push them backwards is by grabbing them near the top of the neck behind their ears with your hand in the shape of a "C" and pushing. In other words, imagine your hand around a large mug, with your thumb on one side and your index finger (and other fingers) on the other side. That is how your hand will look on the pig's neck. You do NOT squeeze the neck, just a firm grip and you push the pig backwards. This is a very effective method.

Try clapping your hands. You are communicating that this not allowed behavior.

Break the behavior when you see it forming in their minds. Yes there are times when you can see them thinking/getting ready to charge. Also keep in mind that some pigs are more territorial or assertive than others.

Try changing the tone in your voice. Sometimes a simple change in the tone of your voice can work.

A sorting board or trash can lid works good too. A sorting board is usually just a piece of plywood with holes cut out for hand grips. You hold the board in front of you like a shield, as you make the pig go backwards a few strides. This will give you some security and confidence while dealing with your pig, and a non-aggressive way to back the pig out of his space. The trash can lid also works well. Plastic is best.

Some pig owners have also found that stamping your feet hard as you do this seems to give a very clear message to the pig that you are serious, and not to be messed with.

Any of the above suggestions will work. You just need to find the one that works best for you and your situation. Make sure that the person being challenged is the one attempting the correction. Even a child can do many of these techniques with the proper instruction.

If the situation happens that you feel visitors are in jeopardy of your pet and the pet is not hitting it off well, then we suggest you put them in their own spot for everyone's safety. A small room or when the weather is good, an outdoor area.

The best would be a room where they can go and not be distrubed. Hopefully that will not have to be the case, but at least you know they have a safe place for them if the case arises. This is for everyone's protection, including the pig. A place where they can still see and hear what is going on would be ideal.

A Biting Pig

Most times when the pig is a biter it is not their fault, but ours. This happens because we are constantly giving or offering food without making them work for it. Other than their meals, they should only be given a treat when it is earned, not because you happened to go into the kitchen!

If you have a pig that is biting or nipping stop ALL food by hand. Treats MUST be earned and it must be placed on the ground or in their bowl. They will not be happy campers at first, but this does work and must be kept up. If you let up and they see an opportunity, believe us they will take advantage of it and you will have to start all over again.

For those of you with new pigs offer treats from a flat hand with the treat sticking up between two fingers. This teaches them to use their lips and not their teeth.

Adding a Second Pig

Thinking about getting another pig because you believe your pig is lonely? Think again and be sure you have the room and space for another pig. Why do we say think again? Well, actually most pigs hate other pigs and are quite content being the only pig. Your only pig child enjoys being an only pig child.

Pro: Twice the loving. Con: Double the trouble
If you can give another pig a good home, great. But don't think you should get another just to keep the first pig company. Most are fine on their own. There is just no guarantee that they will get along. Listen to what the pig is saying. They not only don't want the company but they resent it. One of the few times this seems to work out peacefully is if they are both babies and they come at the same time. Yet even that does not guarantee they will like each other.

Introducing the Second Pig

Keep them under strict supervision or separated for the first few weeks. If they are house pigs then fence contact with a baby gate is a great idea if they leave the baby gate in one piece. The slower you can introduce them, the better and less violent their first confrontation will be.

Introduce them through a fence, so they get used to each others smell. Let them "fence" fight and get used to each other.

After a few weeks you can introduce them for very short periods of time, increasing it daily. Ideally, this should be done on a neutral territory, because pigs are territorial. If they fight, use your sorting board or a garbage can lid to put between the heads of the pigs to break them up.

The fighting can result in a few cuts and scrapes to cut lips and ripped ears. (Be prepared.) Having the pigs on harness and lead will also give you more control.

Don't reward them for being good, or punish them for being bad. This is a natural process the pigs must go through in order to allow one pig to dominate. Just make sure they don't seriously injure each other (monitor it). When one pig retreats, the fighting is just about over.

Make sure that the pigs are about the same size and weight. Do not put a baby in with an adult, or a much smaller pig in with a larger one. A big pig can really hurt a baby (or smaller pig) if they get them cornered where they can't get away fast. This will not just be a one time thing either, they will do it several more times.

Again, it's good if you stand by with a sorting board so that you can stick it in between if things get too bad. They will usually go for the ears and once they grab on they go back to the same one over and over.

The best you can ask for is that they tolerate each other. They will appreciate each other at times, but they will still have disagreements. Plan to accommodate separate sleeping areas if needed.

Also, never, NEVER hit your pig out of anger. They will not understand and in many cases makes them even more stubborn (pigheaded)!!

Patience is the name of the game.

 Scratching

Pigs, scratching and/or belly rubs seem to go hand in hand. With their naturally dry skin they just love to scratch. They also tend to scratch heavily when losing their coat of hair (also called blowing their coat), which usually happens once a year. You can help keep this scratching down to a minimum by making sure your pig is wormed twice a year and has a proper diet. When blowing their coat you can help them out by gently pulling out loose hair. Sometimes it comes out in big handfuls!

If your pig is scratching excessively you might have Mange Mites The skin itself looks kind of pink and irritated and the pig goes wild scratching. And I don't mean just once in a while rubbing against stuff, but its pretty much continuous and they even scratch with their hind legs.

All pigs, especially pot belly pigs, seem to love a good belly rub and will fall over on their side when you get the right spot. They will lay on their side for what will seem like hours while your give them a belly rub. After all, you love a good belly rub, don't you? Some Anti-itch spray can temporarily help your pig.

For those of you considering an inside pig beware that they like to rub on the edges of furniture and walls. The spots they pick out will gradually get dirty or stained. I have spots on two different walls where they love to rub their butts. Make sure your furniture cannot be knocked over if they are scratching on it. They are MUCH stronger than most people think.

Pot Bellied Pigs, Children and Pets

Pot belly pigs and children sometimes do not get along well together. Pigs are a herd animal and need to establish dominance over those they see as weak, such as small children. They will even do this to adults, but figure out quickly that this is a losing proposition.

Pigs sometimes see small children as something they can dominate. This is not to say that some will not get along with children. They will. But, potbellied pigs do have a pecking order. If you have one pig and a child or children, the pig may attempt to become the 'dominant' pig of the house.

Another potential problem is that children sometimes tend to hit or mistreat pets either in play or because they think the pet did something wrong.

When it comes to pot belly pigs you should NEVER hit them. They WILL remember!

TIP: If you are trying to teach a pet pig something and you use the old approach of hitting them when they do not do what you want (sort of like what many people do with dogs or, unfortunately, their children) you can pretty much bank on them NEVER, EVERdoing what it is you are are trying to teach them. When it comes to teaching your pig, patience and FOOD are what will win out!

Potbellied Pigs and Cats

PBP's seem to get along best with cats. My cats think that they make great pillows and love to lay on them during the summer months outside. The pigs on the other hand could care less about the cats. All my pigs except one male, Clyde. Clyde absolutely loves our cat Pebbles! They are best friends. If Pebbles rubs up against Clyde, his mohawk (hair) goes up and sometimes he lays right down!! Pigs and cats make great companions. If you think your pet pig needs a companion, then a cat may be the answer.

Potbellied Pigs and Dogs

Pigs and dogs can get along, but for the pigs sake they should NEVER be left alone together. They should always be supervised. Now why do we say this?

Dogs are predators by nature and pigs are prey. If something upsets the dog, and it is the pig, it is natural for the dog to attack. And normally it is the pig that starts things, but the dog will finish it. They should NEVER be fed close to each other. If you are not going to be around, make sure you have your dog and pig separated.

Potbellied Pigs, Horses and Goats

Goats and PBP's can get along, but in this case it really depends on the disposition of the goat and the pig. Some people that have Pygmy goats said that when fully grown they did get nasty with the pig(s). Seems the Pygmy goats like to head butt and I have heard of several cases with serious results.

I have also heard that horses and pigs can get along, but it appears that they mainly just ignore each other. Except when the horse wants to 'play'. Well, play to a horse can result in severe injury to the pig. As with any animal they do have their own personalities and it will depend on the individual animals as to if they will get along or not.

 Advantages of Pot Belly Pig Ownership: